02-04/03/2007

I chose to follow a period pattern detailed in "Textile Conservation and Research" by M. Flury-Lemberg. Item no. 26 Men's hats from the shipwreck of Gnalic.

Although the originals were dated 1583, their construction method is simple and the final object is exactly what you can see in woodcuts and surviving garments.

I made only one modification: made the brim larger than the crown. In essence I switched the number of increases from the crown to the brim and vice versa. Other than that I cast on, increased and decreased exactly as it was in the pattern.

Since I didn't know what the outcome would be, I used yarn and needles I had on hand: Käsitöölõng (2-ply semicoarse wool yarn) and 3mm aluminium knitting pins.

After I'd finished knitting the beret, I was convinced it was too small. It was not flat, but conical and confirmed my suspicion that these berets were mass produced (in Reneissance context) and blocked to the final flat shape.

I used dessert plate for blocking at first, but it's circumference was not large enough. Next, a friend made me a bigger, plastic plate and it's perfect.

The final circumference is only 2.5cm less than the original and if I'd stretched the brim sonehow, I'm sure I'd gotten the original measurements.

For the future:

• try to use handspun yarn;
• experiment with bigger needles and felting.

~*~