Underclothes

Shirt

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11/06/2006

After some research I've decided to base this shirt on Sture shirts. The Stures were killed in 1567, byt the cut is very suitable for a shirt with a high smocked collar.

12/06/2006

Lucas Cranach the Elder, 1537.

This is the kind of shirt collar I am aiming for. The image is from a drawing called Hercules and Omphale by Lucas Cranach the Elder, 1537.

I did some digging and found Lia de Tornegge's site and her diary about A Sture shirt for a Lady.

In that diary she posted a cutting diagram of a Sture shirt. I used that as the inspiration for the cutting plan for my own shirt.

13/06/2006

Shirt cutting plan.

Cut out the main shirt pieces (body x 2 and sleeves x 2). Began hemming the first sleeve.

14/06/2006

Finished hemming the first sleeve and began smocking the wrist.

15/06/2006

Finished the smocking and attached the cords. It took a while to decide what technique to use for cords. Finally I settled with fingerlooping them.

16/06/2006

Cut out and hemmed the first gusset. Attached the gusset to the sleeve and seamed it. First sleeve finished.

17/06/2006

Began and finished the second sleeve.

18/06/2006

Hemmed the front body piece, the front slit and did one hem of the back piece.

19/06/2006

Finished hemming the back body piece, sewed one shoulder and began the other.

20/06/2006

Finished the other shoulder and gathered the neckhole.

21/06/2006

Cut neckband, hemmed it and began gathering it.

22/06/2006

Gathered the neckband and began fixing the folds.

23 to 25

Gone to the War of the Roses.

26 and 27

Took a break from sewing to catch up with sleep.

28/06/2006

Finished gathering the collar and tried to attach it. I'm stumped and need to figure out a better way.

29/06/2006

Ripped out a part of the smocking of the collar and folded the raw edge up. Hopefully this will solve the problem.

30/06/2006

Fiddled some more with the collar, but I'm not making any real progress here.

01/07/2006

Took a break from sewing.

02/07/2006

Finished the collar.

03/07/2006

Unpicked some of the work I did yesterday and sewed the gathers differently. There is still a noticeable join where I sewed the collar the the body, but it's not as bad as before.

04/07/2006

Unpicked the collar again and sewed the gathers again. I am very frustrated with the collar and have decided to put it aside while sewing the dress.

07/08/2006

Put up the picture of the cutting plan. I apologize for it's sketchyness.

28/08/2006

Attached the sleeves and embroidered the collar. Finished!

28/11/2006

Unpicked the previous embroidery, embroidered the collar and the sleeve cuffs. Finished, again.